The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[Farmerpip]

Just replaced the front nearside wheel bearing on my '51 plate long wheelbase.

It all went pretty smoothly.  Could do it a lot quicker next time...

Bought a new bearing from Milner 4x4 - £75 - it was a pre-assembled hub and bearing.  Got the one with new fitting bolts, as it was the same price.

Sequence as follows:  

(Jacked up, secondary support as well as jack, wheel off, obv!  Left it in 2wd, as can then rotate hub if needed...)

Took off the entire brake calliper as one piece, leaving pipe attached.  Hung it on the coil spring with a bit of wire.  Took off disc (new discs fitted a while ago, so came off very easily - only held on by wheel nuts - no grub screw).

Took off the ABS sensor - needed careful encouragement to come out.  Took off ABS guard, brake pipe support and disc brake guard.

Split the steering knuckle.

Eased out the dust cap on the centre of the hub.  (Buy a new dust cap if you can - the old one will probably fall apart when you take it out)  Braced a bit of box-section under the hub to stop it turning, and undid main drive shaft nut (32mm socket with extension on breaker bar).  Tapped splined shaft back in towards diff.

Top suspension knuckle - couldn't get my splitter on it, as drive shaft was in the way.  Took off three bolts holding the knuckle to the suspension arm instead (not a problem, as the joint needed replacing anyway).

Bottom suspension knuckle - couldn't get my splitter on that, as jaws on splitter 19mm and bolt on knuckle 22mm.  Jacked up under the knuckle (leave nut on to protect thread) and hit housing with hammer until it came apart.

Removed hub/carrier.  Removed top knuckle joint from carrier.  Supported carrier on blocks of wood, and hit bearing/hub with drift and hammer until it came out of the carrier.

Cleaned up inside of the carrier, lightly oiled it and pushed in new hub - wasn't an interference fit, but seemed snug enough.  Torqued up bolts to 88nm+/-10

Very lightly greased splines on drive shaft with moly grease.  Put hub/carrier back on.  Bottom knuckle torqued to 147nm+/-29.   Top knuckle torqued to 74nm+/-14  (Couldn't get torque wrench on top one, so had to estimate...  Should have fitted it while I had the carrier off!)  Steering knuckle torqued to 39nm+/-4.

Braced box section under hub, and tightened main drive shaft nut to 255nm+/-29  (Beyond range of torque wrench, but used a 1m pipe on breaker bar, and pulled it with a spring balance until it read 25kg.)

Put bits of tin back on, and ABS sensor.  Put brake calliper back on, bolts torqued to 113nm+/-10.

Wheel back on - torqued to 110nm.

A few people have commented on new bearings failing quickly.  Time will tell...  I tend to use copper-ease when putting all the bolts back in - makes it a lot easier to get apart next time!

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