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The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ The Mitsubishi Pajero, Shogun, Montero, Challenger, Raider and EVO 4x4 Owner's Club
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coulchie1234 ****
Age: 53 Zodiac: Joined: 21 May 2007 Posts: 254 Location: ireland
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Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 13:13 Post subject: |
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Still driving beautifully, and at this stage i can also say that there is a slighrt increase in mpg |
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Google Sponsor
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Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 13:13 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
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Roadrunner2110 ******
Joined: 08 Dec 2010 Posts: 2471
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Posted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 20:48 Post subject: |
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It's one hell of a topic and very subjective. Many seem to report it as apparently working whilst others say it's temporary and others say it'll do more damage than good. I have to replace my pump front seal on a 4M40 which, as some have said, is a pig of a job even worse at my age with creaky bones. However the Dot 4 miracle cure has to be worth a shot and I'll be replacing the seal sooner or later in any event but not in the winter, I hope, even if the temperatures here are 10-15C some days. If one considers the Dot 4 cure and the effects on the seals it cannot be too drastic as the calipers and master cylinder have seals which would be affected adversely if the Dot 4 ruined seals. Admittedly, I don't know what the pumps seals are made of and equally I don't know what the braking system seals are made from. It would be interesting to investigate this cure, albeit it maybe temporary, to fully understand the possible ramifications long term and the differing materials the pumps and braking seals are made of. Before I venture down this Dot 4 route I think I'll look into the compatibility of the seals materials and the possible long term effects. I have to admit that from others reports it does look very promising albeit a shortish term fix. |
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Jim Pike **
Age: 70 Zodiac: Joined: 24 Oct 2005 Posts: 91 Location: Studley,Warwickshire
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Posted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 15:30 Post subject: |
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Hi Roadrunner2110
Before doing DOT4 treatment decide how bad your seal problem is, if it is only a minor inconvieniece and just stalling occassionlay then leave alone til you get chance to do the seal proper way.
DOT 4 may work sometimes but by mixing with about quarter of a tank of diesel you would have to run it all through in one go, you dont want diesel mixed with DOT4 lay in the pump over night or a few days as it will continue to eat away (soften) the seal until it is a sticky mess.
This does not always work for extended period of time, so may bring the fitting of a new seal quicker.
Yes you are right it is a pig of a job, but the satisfaction is worth it. nearly a year on mine still starts first click, don't even wait for pre heaters just turn key, but it hasn't got cold here yet.
Cheers and a happy new year to all
Jim |
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Roadrunner2110 ******
Joined: 08 Dec 2010 Posts: 2471
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Posted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 16:19 Post subject: |
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Jim Pike wrote: |
Hi Roadrunner2110
Before doing DOT4 treatment decide how bad your seal problem is, if it is only a minor inconvieniece and just stalling occassionlay then leave alone til you get chance to do the seal proper way.
DOT 4 may work sometimes but by mixing with about quarter of a tank of diesel you would have to run it all through in one go, you dont want diesel mixed with DOT4 lay in the pump over night or a few days as it will continue to eat away (soften) the seal until it is a sticky mess.
This does not always work for extended period of time, so may bring the fitting of a new seal quicker.
Yes you are right it is a pig of a job, but the satisfaction is worth it. nearly a year on mine still starts first click, don't even wait for pre heaters just turn key, but it hasn't got cold here yet.
Cheers and a happy new year to all
Jim |
Thanks Jim, it's good to get others opinions and ideas. I am the eternal sceptic about 'quick fixes' and will no doubt do the pump seal correctly as I have never won yet with a quick fix on anything. It's like Radweld and Bars Leaks for stopping coolant leaks, I often wonder what else these are gooing up like cylinder and head waterways, radiator and the heater matrix and what do they do to the stat? Being an engineer I am all for the engineering solution rather than the miracle cure. I'm pleased some are lucky with this fix but knowing my luck it'll turn into an expensive disaster.
Best OR |
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rockyfan Newbie
Joined: 15 Dec 2012 Posts: 3 Location: Billing, Northampton.
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Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 0:05 Post subject: |
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DOT 4 could this be like wynns diesel additive ( renews the life of the seals)?
Did my pump seal on my 2.8 J top a couple of weeks ago, Changed oil, filter and fuel filter too and seems to run great now. 95,000 km.
John. |
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Junc *****
Age: 55 Zodiac: Joined: 27 Aug 2013 Posts: 671 Location: Derbyshire
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Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 8:49 Post subject: |
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Would anyone know what's happend to do noughts truck now?
Is it still running?
I have aft long investigating and replacing full lines return rail etc found the leak on the pump.
(I think z)
I tightend all pipes, banjos, etc up as the been loose.
Still have a leak.
Only when it standing you can see it.
It's dripping from the engine, front diff, after a long run.
Over night it would be around 20to50ml on the floor.
Annoying.
It's getting to the point you can see it on the back of the truck as it is all around the engine , sump, exiles, floor.
So due to driving it is going to the rear and sprays the poo all on the back, and if towing on the cravan.
3 mechanics I asked will not touch the thing as it means timing and new Campbelt etc.
Costs estimated between 400-600 plus parts.
No worth it, I think not any car unless it would be 30k worth is worth this amount on repair bill.
I am not convinced the brake fluid is not damaging anything else along the line.
But, I try, I need to tow with the truck on Friday to go away for a couple days, or it go crazy.
Have enough from work and everyday poo.
So I'll guess I just try it.
This is the seal I found out is leaking
I must admit I use veg oil, farmfoods or poundland, for the last couple month, actually since January, in a ratio of 50/50 .
Going back to standart diesel and hope I find a garage which is cheap. Lol
Would you suggest this seal is going to fix itself by adding the brake fluid, and do I need to get the tank empty, fill up around a 10er with 400ml brake fluid, drive it empty again and refill after complete?
Sorry I try to keep my tank full as posible.
I am doing around 60-80 miles a day and don't want to waste time to refill every day, standing in a queue of people and wait untill I get to the pump.
Thanks in advance |
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davembp ******
Age: 59 Zodiac: Joined: 19 Nov 2006 Posts: 2187 Location: chesterfield
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Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 17:05 Post subject: |
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put a 500ml bottle in the tank with whatever you have in tank and run it for a few days and see how it goes, it will seal or it wont, but if ypu dont
try you wont know. |
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Simon_W *******
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford
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Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 19:16 Post subject: |
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Junc wrote: |
I have aft long investigating and replacing full lines return rail etc found the leak on the pump.
(I think z)
I tightend all pipes, banjos, etc up as the been loose.
Still have a leak.
Only when it standing you can see it.
It's dripping from the engine, front diff, after a long run.
Over night it would be around 20to50ml on the floor.
Annoying.
It's getting to the point you can see it on the back of the truck as it is all around the engine , sump, exiles, floor.
So due to driving it is going to the rear and sprays the poo all on the back, and if towing on the cravan.
3 mechanics I asked will not touch the thing as it means timing and new Campbelt etc.
Costs estimated between 400-600 plus parts.
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Junc,
I had what sounds like exactly the same problem on my 2.8 Challenger after running 50/50 diesel/veg for a few months. What started as a small leak from the fuel pump became steady drips so that a pool of mix would form under the car.
I took the pump off and sent it to Diesel Bob http://www.dieselbob.co.uk/ for an overhaul. I also had the injectors refurbished with new nozzles. It's made a fantastic difference to the truck. The engine is much quieter and smoother. I thought the cost was very reasonable too.
It's really not too difficult to remove and refit the pump yourself. Lots of advice available on this forum. On a 2.8 there's no cambelt, and there's no reason why the timing can't remain exactly 'as is' if you take care. |
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doughnut Newbie
Age: 57 Zodiac: Joined: 26 Apr 2011 Posts: 6 Location: s wales
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Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 11:59 Post subject: quick fix for fuel pump |
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hi just an update scrapped truck last year .quick fix worked for me saved me a lot of cash ,no running issues.
ran truck for just over 2 1/2 years after
the science behind all this is that brake fluid softens and makes seals swell.
this isn,t a permanent cure
new seals are always a better option
i guess it depends how much life youve got left in your truck
my thoughts at the time was truck is going soon do i want to spend money
ps if you are having starting and cutting out issues before you reach for the dot 4 or replace seals
check to see if there is air being sucked into fuel lines and fuel pump
manual fuel pump lift seal is notorious for sucking air
cheers and thanks for all the interest |
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Simon_W *******
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford
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Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 12:26 Post subject: Re: quick fix for fuel pump |
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doughnut wrote: |
hi just an update scrapped truck last year .quick fix worked for me saved me a lot of cash ,no running issues.
ran truck for just over 2 1/2 years after....... |
Many thanks for the update. This is a useful thread for others and that info will be very helpful.
Shame you had to scrap your truck though. But at least you avoided spending cash on a pump rebuild. |
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jonathon Newbie
Age: 43 Zodiac: Joined: 28 Sep 2014 Posts: 1 Location: Essex
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 17:28 Post subject: |
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this does work!
I've just acquired a 1995 2.8 shogun and whilst it didnt leave massive puddles of diesel on the ground the cold starts were really rough and it stalled out all the time until it was warm.
I had a long drive to do yesterday, so added 500ml of dot 4 to a quarter of a tank of fuel and drove for hours until the light come on. topped up, drove 30 more mins. Started it this morning and it's like a new car. Couldnt have behaved better if it tried. It also felt much smoother towards to the end of my long drive yesterday.
I had nothing to loose by trying it, if it didnt work I'd have got the seal done, for now though I'll wait and see before booking it in to a garage. |
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ryan1000 ***
Age: 47 Zodiac: Joined: 13 Jun 2011 Posts: 216 Location: wales
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 13:31 Post subject: timer cover leaking on inijection pump |
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Had a leak on my pump for a couple of days, leaking very badly, not weeping but dripping and pooling on floor,after a good inspection yesterday I came to the conclusion that the leak was coming from the timer cover on both sides of the pump, more so from the engine side,but as its close to Xmas there's no way the pump is coming off, so I put in 500ml of brake fluid, and when for a spin,came back and leak has all but stoped, except for a very slow drip from timer plate on engine side, will check again today and post again, thanks |
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ryan1000 ***
Age: 47 Zodiac: Joined: 13 Jun 2011 Posts: 216 Location: wales
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 16:29 Post subject: |
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Update, just checked , have been everyday since, leak has completely stopped, pump is dry, so is diff where it was dripping on, this really works, don't know for how long but I'll keep an eye on it, might get new seals after Xmas, might not haha, looking at it I think timer cover seals can be done without taking pump off, tho engine side will be tight, watch this space! |
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trekker ********
Age: 83 Zodiac: Joined: 25 Jun 2012 Posts: 5202 Location: Zimbabwe
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Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 20:27 Post subject: |
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The IP rubber parts including the seals are of Nitrile or Viton rubber, making them resistant to diesel.
The rubber parts of the paj brake system are of ordinary rubber EDPM, as are the radiator hoses for example.
Brake fluid Dot 3 and Dot 4 are produced with Polyglycol, to which EDPM is compatible. Not so with Dot 2 or 5.
Dot 3-4 added to the diesel will be absorbed into the Nitrile and Viton rubber parts and seals in the IP, softening those parts.
I've drawn this basic info from the net, and thought it may answer the question of why and what happens when Dot 3 - 4 is fed into a leaking IP. |
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davembp ******
Age: 59 Zodiac: Joined: 19 Nov 2006 Posts: 2187 Location: chesterfield
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Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 23:04 Post subject: |
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Two years ago around this time when ambient temp dropped my 2.8 developed the leak as above, I ran the brake fluid through which stopped
the leak, I had no adverce problems, but a few weeks ago I started to get the leak back but not from the same 'O' ring, this leak was worse than
the first leak so I have run brake fluid through again which took a week to stop to date, I looked into getting the 3 'O' rings replaced by sir rick on
here which he gave me a fair price to do the job, however the price is over the 50% cost to have the pump fully overhauled by my local diesel chap
of which diesel bob is the same price! but bob is in preston with the added cost of fuel and camping fees, so I am getting my pump overhauled by my
local chap. |
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